q&a with chef dragan
It’s time to set sail and indulge in Supperclub Kouzina! Meet Chef Dragan Susa as he guides you through the Mediterranean with every bite designed to share his culinary journey from Croatia, his hometown, to the landscapes of Greece.
Q: Tell us a little bit about yourself.
When I was just 9 years old, I found myself on a student exchange in Chania, a city nestled on the island of Crete. I stayed with a family that ran a restaurant, and I ended up there two to three times every week, completely falling in love with cooking. Fast forward a bit, I completed four years of culinary high school and then pursued a three-year university degree in Hotel Management, specializing in Gastronomy.
My career took me to various places including Serbia, Greece, Croatia, Bahrain, and for the past 11 years, Dubai. I've worked predominantly in restaurants and 5-star hotels like Grecotel, as well as Kempinski Hotel in Croatia, Bahrain, and Dubai. In the last four years, I've been with Emirates Flight Catering, serving as the Executive Sous Chef for Concept Development.
Q: What’s one dish that you think shouldn’t be served in the sky?
Raw seafood and any other raw protein.
Q: What’s the best meal you’ve ever had on board a flight?
Prawn machbous!
Q: One of your signature starters that people often get to take home and devour the next day (if they don’t eat it on the car ride back home) is the bread with cheese and rosemary, served with Ajvar. What’s the secret behind this dish? Is Ajvar a popular Balkan condiment? What else can guests pair the bread with if they don’t have the ajvar readily available at home?
Ajvar holds a special place in the hearts of Balkans, but the finest varieties are from Serbia and North Macedonia. This owes much to the exceptional quality of bell peppers found in southern Serbia and the northern part of North Macedonia. The ajvar I prefer comes from HERACLEA food, conveniently available in Dubai (you can find it on Noon, for instance).
Ajvar isn't just a condiment; it's a staple you'll find at breakfast, lunch, or dinner tables. Whether it's spread on a slice of bread, paired with grilled dishes, or enjoyed alongside sunny-side-up eggs in the morning, it adds a delightful touch. And if ajvar isn't on hand, perhaps some herb butter, babaganoush, or moutabal can step in.
Q: Your flank steak is something you rub with coffee of all things! How well do coffee and steak go together? Is there an art to this pairing that readers should know about?
Well, the flank steak gets a nice coffee marinade, along with a few other secret ingredients, and it sits in there for a good quality 8 hours. That's how all those flavors really meld together. Now, the trick with coffee is, it adds this unique slightly bitter kick and helps with that gorgeous caramelization when it hits the flames. At first, people might raise an eyebrow at coffee and steak teaming up, but trust me, once they take a bite, they'll get it. It's one of those surprising combinations that just works like magic on your taste buds.
Q: What are your thoughts on restaurant critics? The fact that the existence or demise of a restaurant might depend on the choice of words (praise or criticism) found in well-read review guides or articles?
First of all who are the critics? If they have any F&B background I would understand, but today any one with Insta, Twitter, Facebook or any other platform believe that they have right to criticize. It's all about individual taste buds, and what flies for one person might not for another. It's a whole new world out there in the land of reviews and critiques.
Q: According to a NY Times article, Dubai has more restaurants per capita than New York, approx. 13,000 establishments. What do you think of the current food scene in the emirate?
There are too many trendy restaurants, yes from the 13000 establishments. But here's the thing: amidst all the trends and hype, it feels like there's a shortage of places with real soul. It's not just about making bank or chasing fame; what I miss most and what some Chefs are doing great is uniqueness. Some chefs are nailing it, bringing that special something to the table that sets them apart from the crowd.
Q: Name a restaurant locally or internationally that getting a reservation at would justify the cost of a trip? And why?
Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, is one of those spots worth traveling for. For me, it’s because of Chef Massimo Bottura's modern take on traditional Italian cuisine. Then there's D.O.M in Sao Paulo, Brazil, run by Alex Atala, who's all about incorporating indigenous flavors in his cooking.
Q: The best cookbook that you own that is timeless, one that you come back to again and again? And why?
Dalmatian cookbook. It was put together after World War II to preserve the recipes from the area. It focuses on local ingredients, like in one recipe where it tells you to "Take the sea water." That’s because back in the day, before pollution messed things up, that water was packed with all those “umami” flavors you find in clams, mussels, and oysters. When you can taste the sea with every bite.
Q: What’s your favorite meal at home or favorite dine-in spot in Dubai?
Zagol, Ethiopian restaurant in Al Karama.
Taverna at Madinat Jumeirah because it gives me that “Welcome back to Greece” vibe, and the Chef is a good friend.
Home… and now that’s a tough one…probably would be Veal or Octopus under Peka. Here’s a link to find out more.