q&a with chef nathan
Meet Chef Nathan, the culinary wizard behind supper club A Table, where he expresses his modern vision of French fusion fine dining cuisine. From the famous French croque monsieur to his lemon and caviar Beurre Blanc sauce and Rossini Wagyu beef, he’s created a magical culinary space where the art of gastronomy meets the power of words.
Now as the French would say…now it’s time: ‘A table!
Q: Tell us a little bit about yourself.
I have to admit that becoming a chef was not my destiny from a young age. School wasn't for me; I was more of the hyperactive type, and the idea of sitting in a chair all day didn't suit me. My grandparents were restaurant owners in Paris. I quickly embarked on a career path, starting with a traineeship in a bakery at the age of 14, followed by experience in a restaurant. It was an immediate revelation. I fell in love with the atmosphere, the constant movement, the rush of service, and the discipline instilled by my mentors helped me channel and grow. I worked in the world of luxury hotels, in different palaces, and in several Michelin-starred restaurants such as Ill Carpaccio at the Royal Monceau, and with Stephanie Lequellec, the chef with whom we obtained 2 stars in the Michelin guide. Three years ago, I came to Dubai and worked for the Jumeirah Group at Mina A Salam Hotel, the Burj Al Arab, and now I am the chef for the opening of Marsa Al Arab Residences.
Q: What’s something that most people don’t know about what goes behind the scenes in a restaurant kitchen?
People often underestimate the amount of work that happens outside restaurant opening hours. When I start work at 8 o'clock in the morning, people are surprised and often ask me why I come so early when there are no customers at those times. I then explain the process of mise en place in the kitchen, which involves making all the preliminary preparations for the food. Service is only a small part of our day; it's the culmination of all our hours of preparation.
Q: We found out that the Croque Monsieur was a household favorite growing up. What’s the difference between a Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame, and have you found the best place to have it in Dubai?
The croque monsieur is a dish that takes me back to my childhood. It's a typical French sandwich made with ham, cheese, and baked bechamel that most moms make for their children. I decided to reinterpret it into a gastronomic version, using Campaillou bread , a mix between rustic country bread and brioche bread, bechamel with refined Comté and black truffle, and veal ham toasted with salted butter. This has been one of my signature dishes since I arrived in Dubai, and I have many customers who come just for this dish. There is a variant of the croque monsieur, the croque madame, which simply adds a runny fried egg to the top of the sandwich.
Q: How do you feel about cell-phone usage at dinner tables?
A moment at the table is a moment of conviviality, and when I'm with people I love, I don't even think about taking out my phone. I believe it's acceptable to use it at certain times, but in moderation. We must also acknowledge that the telephone is a powerful communication tool in our industry. I'm not opposed to using a phone to photograph a dish we appreciate, as a way to remember it and make the taste last longer in our memory. I think it’s nice to keep track of what we eat; in my case, it helps me in my creativity process, it inspires me and allows me to share new dishes or convince friends to try this restaurant or this dish!
Q: If you were to host a dinner party for 6, who would you invite? Could be anyone. Dead or alive. Why?
If I were to host a table of 6 with the people of my choice, I would undoubtedly invite Jim Carrey to set the right mood at the table, Alain Ducasse, the monument of French gastronomy, Serena Williams for her determination, mindset, and my passion for tennis, Kevin Hart for his positif attitude, and my grandparents, as my passion for cooking came from them.
Q: What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a foreign country outside your own? Describe the meal and where did you have it.
It's a difficult question because I have so many excellent memories, but if I had to choose one, it would be Nusantara Restaurant by chefs Ray Adriansyah and Eelke Plasmeijerseafood in Ubud, Bali. It is a cozy and welcoming restaurant in the center of Ubud that showcase traditional Indonesian cuisine from different regions in a contemporary way. They like to say Nusantara is a “etno-culinary” portrait of the country and this is what we 100% experienced, lesser-known dishes, very local and not commonly found outside, a real discovery! I would recommend it to anyone who goes to Ubud!
Q: What do you think is currently lacking in the dinner party scene?
I believe what's lacking from the Dubai or more difficult to find are “calm” places, akin to guest houses but in the form of a restaurant. A kind of inn where you can gather with friends or family, enjoying a relaxed atmosphere without loud music. It should have a cellar with a selection of affordable natural wines, a concise menu featuring exceptional products like roast chicken or a whole shoulder of lamb confit. Something more convivial, where people can unwind at the table without the sometimes-exuberant atmosphere that Dubai can have.
Q: When you're off duty, what kind of meal do you enjoy, either at home or outside?
I'm an absolute fan of Japanese food as mentioned above, and on my days off, I love to go hunting for the best ramen in Dubai, I think I've tried them all, but my favorite is still ..... Kinoya!