q&a with chef varun
Meet Chef Varun Menghani, a Dubai-born foodie with roots in Sindh, Pakistan, who’s taken his culinary skills on a world tour! From the lively streets of Jaipur to the cozy corners of Switzerland and the bustling vibes of New York City, Varun’s journey is nothing short of a culinary rollercoaster. Growing up in a family of 12 (yep, 12!), he’s always been surrounded by the hustle and bustle of the kitchen. Now, with Sabah Dining Supper Club, he’s finally bringing his long-time dream to life, whipping up dishes inspired by all the places he's called home. Dive in for some hilarious stories, foodie inspirations, and a sneak peek into his deliciously creative mind.
Q: Tell us a little bit about yourself.
My name is Varun Menghani. my family originally hails from Sindh, Pakistan. After the partition of India and Pakistan, my grandfather, along with his parents, moved to India and eventually settled in Jaipur, Rajasthan. Fast forward to 1979, my dad and his brothers moved to Dubai, and we've been here ever since.
Back in 2007, my family and I went on a vacation to Switzerland, mostly exploring the German side—Zurich and Interlaken. That trip made me fall in love with the place, and I knew I wanted to study and live there for a while. A few years later, I discovered my passion for food. Growing up in a family of 12, hospitality was always in my blood, being the second youngest. In 2015, I enrolled at the Culinary Arts Academy in a quaint village called Le Bouveret on the French side of Switzerland. I stayed there until 2018, soaking in all the culinary greatness!
Over the past decade, I've worked at:
Hôtel des Trois Couronnes, Vevey, Switzerland, 1 Michelin Star
Seerestaurant Belvedere, Hergiswil, Switzerland, 1 Michelin Star
The NoMad Hotel, New York City, USA, 1 Michelin Star
Miguel’s Cocktails and Petiscos, Panjim, India, 11th Best Bar in India
Burger Desi, Dubai’s First Indian Burger Concept, Dubai (which I owned and later sold)
Q: What’s the meaning behind Sabah Dining?
In essence, Sabah Dining was my answer to wanting to do something of my own, and it is named after a street in Bur Dubai where my dad’s office is. The ‘Sabah’ in Sabah Dining has a few meanings: 1) a 7-course menu and 2) the morning feeling exalted.
Q: Your menu / concept is a tribute to the cities you’ve grown up and/or worked in. Tell us a fun story about each, and why those places left a mark.
Let's start with New York City. I ended up there because my job posting in Dubai kept getting delayed, and I was fresh out of culinary school, eager to get back into a kitchen. One of my best memories is from a day off when my coworkers and I went to Madison Square Park. We had milk and honey ice cream while watching fireflies in the spring. It was such a beautiful and unforgettable view!
Bangkok is special because it's where I proposed to my then-girlfriend. The city itself is incredible, full of energy and life. I absolutely love everything about it!
Dubai is home for me. It’s where I grew up, and it will always have a special place in my heart. It’s impossible not to leave a mark when it's your home base.
Bouveret! Those three years were transformative for me. I experienced everything from heartbreak to my first job and living with roommates in the same apartment. I met some amazing people who will always have a special place in my heart. It’s a tiny, emotional village tucked away in a corner of Switzerland.
Panjim is where I really grew as a cook. At 23, I was a sous chef and part of the opening team for one of the best places to eat and drink in Goa. It was a huge culture shock since it was my first time living in India, the motherland. One of the highlights was attending a three-day music festival on a beach and being recognized for my food while there. Those three years were absolutely unforgettable!
Q: How did you know you were ready to start out on your own with Sabah Dining?
The idea for Sabah Dining actually came to me about four years ago, around the time I was leaving Panjim. Fast forward to this year, I had just been let go from my job as a junior sous chef at a restaurant called Odeon in Jumeirah. While I was job hunting, my wife encouraged me to finally start Sabah Dining—especially the supper club—because I hadn’t stopped talking about it for the past four years. So, this really is a dream come true for me!
Q: Which great chefs inspire you the most, and how have they influenced your work?
There's an incredible chef in Chicago named Curtis Duffy who really inspires me. I share his philosophy: I cook for myself, and if I don't like it, I won't eat it. So, I wouldn’t expect anyone else to eat it, let alone pay for it. The day I stop enjoying my own food is the day I stop cooking.
Q: Walk us through your thought process behind curating a new dish.
It’s definitely a method driven by inspiration, usually from the main ingredient. That inspiration can strike anywhere—at the supermarket, in a conversation, or from a memory. Since I'm a very visual person, I like to draw it out to make sense of it in my head, kind of like a mind map.
I’ll give you a visual example of the tomato cheese dish thought process. Here’s a diagram to illustrate (see below).
Q: Savoury or sweet?
Can i choose both?
Q: What’s the most recent culinary milestone you’ve achieved?
After a really long time, I finally started my own F&B concept where I get to cook the food I love. It’s truly a dream come true!
Q: What dish reminds you of your childhood and why?
A dish called 'mutton keema' always takes me back. It's basically mutton mince cooked for hours with onion, ginger, garlic, a bit of tomato, and simple spices, served with toasted pav (a type of Indian bread), coriander, and raw diced onions. It always hits the spot. I'm actually working on a rendition of this for Sabah Dining's supper clubs. Hopefully, it'll be as good as my mom's!
Q: What’s a dish you’ve curated, as an ode to mom, that is pretty close to the real deal?
Oh, without a doubt, the butter chicken. My mom is famed within the family for her butter chicken and my butter chicken is an ode to her for sure.
Q: You’re a Dubai born third culture kid! You’ve seen this place change drastically from a culinary perspective. Name a place that you’ve been visiting for many years, where the quality of food has remained consistently excellent, and you keep retuning to just for the nostalgic feel?
There are a few spots that always hit the spot for me: Al Mallah, Duniya Al Sham, Al Mukhtar, and Damasco. These places have consistently excellent food and bring back so many nostalgic memories every time I visit.
Q: Where do you do go out to eat with the Mrs.?
Our favorite spot is Cafe Isan. I love Thai food, and for her, it feels like home.